In a bustling neighborhood filled with diverse villas, we meet Wu Shaohua, an immigrant from Sha County, Fujian Province, who has successfully brought traditional Chinese cuisine to Portugal. During a video interview, Wu passionately shares the story of his journey in establishing a Sha County snack shop abroad.
At 55 years old, Wu settled in Portugal in 2004, and six years later he opened his first Sha County restaurant in Gaia New City. His decision to move the shop to a villa area was a bold one, motivated largely by the picturesque surroundings and convenient transportation options.
Another entrepreneur in the scene is Yang Yuanchun, a second-generation Sha County native who currently operates a prominent Sha County snack shop in the heart of Bangkok, Thailand. With 20 years of experience in the restaurant industry, Yang boasts that he has successfully managed 11 Chinese restaurants across four countries since venturing overseas in late 2018.
Unlike the small, family-run eateries typically associated with Sha County snacks back home, Yang’s international outlets have a significantly larger footprint. For instance, his Bangkok establishment spans four floors, while a location in Kuala Lumpur exceeds 200 square meters, changing the local perception of what Sha County cuisine can be.
“Sha County snacks were once humble, usually operated by those with little formal training,” Wu reflects, highlighting how they once epitomized low-cost eating with catchy slogans like “one dollar to enter and two to fill up.” Fast forward to today, and Sha County snacks have expanded to over 60 countries and regions worldwide, riding a wave of popularity that has sparked a global interest in Chinese cuisine.
Wu’s culinary roots run deep in Sha County’s Xiamiao Town, where he grew up surrounded by the traditions of making steamed dumplings and other snacks. After relocating to Portugal, he realized the potential for a Sha County snack shop when he found a lack of such eateries in the region. Despite initial hurdles related to immigration status, he eventually opened his first shop in October 2010, which quickly became a local favorite.
However, the business came with high operational costs. Wu faced challenges with limited space and expensive rent, as his original setup only allowed for a small six-square-meter stall within a commercial area. The allure of moving to a suburban area in 2022 became evident when he discovered a villa that could accommodate his shop at a more manageable rent of €1000 per month.
Wu transformed the villa into a vibrant space, complete with flower pots, an eye-catching sign displaying a puzzle of various Sha County snacks, and traditional Portuguese decor inside. Most of his patrons are local Portuguese, with many returning frequently, growing friendships along the way.
In contrast to his initial buffet-style setup, Wu adapted his approach as he recognized the need for immediate freshness in his dishes. Today, he operates a “made-to-order” buffet with over 100 dish options, allowing diners to customize their meals while accommodating local tastes by removing bones for convenience.
Yang’s path to entrepreneurship began when he opened his first restaurant at the age of 22 in Fuzhou. However, he decided to spread his wings internationally. Inspired by the profit margins observed during a trip to Malaysia in 2018, he opened his first overseas restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, weathering various challenges but ultimately succeeding.
His strategy involved hiring local staff while bringing in skilled cooks from Sha County to ensure authenticity. As his brand gained recognition, stores expanded to Laos and Thailand, with a continued commitment to maintain flavor consistency by sourcing ingredients directly from Sha County.
Both Wu and Yang express a firm belief in the potential of adapting and innovating in international markets. As Wu shares moments with his customers, teaching them to use chopsticks and fostering a sense of community, he finds fulfillment in forming genuine connections with locals who have embraced him and his cuisine.
Reflecting on their journeys, both entrepreneurs are optimistic despite the challenges of the food industry. As Yang states, “Today’s restaurant business might be tough, but through perseverance and creativity, there’s always an opportunity for success.”