Cheap prices but harmful to the earth, consumers are in a dilemma

During the COVID-19 pandemic, content creator Angie Wang experienced the powerful influence of fast fashion firsthand. At 28 years old, the former IT resource analyst decided to pivot her career after watching internet sensation Lauren Giraldo’s latest hit video featuring the “12-3-30” treadmill workout—12% incline, 3 mph, for 30 minutes.

Angie shared, “Creating content aligns more with my creative nature, and what’s more, those posts can potentially earn me more than my previous salary.”

However, the rapid shifts in fashion trends compelled her to act quickly, including sourcing from Shein. Her first order consisted of some T-shirts and pants, but the pace of new product arrivals escalated. After all, she mentioned, “newness” is crucial for survival in the social media landscape.

Conversely, 19-year-old Lianne Calvo, a fashion enthusiast, opted for a different path. Rather than chasing the latest trends, she turned to secondhand clothing. With a laugh, the junior from UCLA pointed to her outfit, saying, “This piece actually belongs to my mom. She looked younger in it than I do now! I think it’s a treasure that’s fresher than anything new.”

Fast fashion’s transition from concept to sale takes only a few weeks, presenting a dilemma for young consumers. On one side, Instagram boasts over a million posts tagged with “#sheinhaul,” where influencers showcase their Shein purchases and outfit try-ons that rack up upwards of 90,000 likes. On the flip side, a quick YouTube search for “fast fashion” will reveal countless Gen Z creators voicing concerns over the environmental impact and labor exploitation associated with it, some videos even garnering over a million views.

In a 31-minute video, YouTuber Jordan Theresa discusses how clothing that became popular during the pandemic has already become outdated. She highlights the industry’s rapid trend cycles, which pressure consumers into a buy-buy-buy mentality, even referencing the 2022 film “Not Okay” and how many viewers criticized the 2020 styles featured as “so ugly.”

The growing criticism around fast fashion has not hindered its popularity. Zara, established in 1975, is often regarded as a pioneer in fast fashion, but newer brands like Shein and Temu—operating strictly online—surged in popularity during the pandemic. Notably, Shein’s market share in the U.S. has doubled since before the pandemic.

Management professor Magali Delmas from UCLA attributes the swift rise of online fast fashion to globalization, cheap labor, and low costs. “Most people won’t change their consumption habits unless they see a personal benefit, and they’re unlikely to sacrifice for the environment,” she explains.

Legislation such as California’s Senate Bill 707, which requires garment brands to submit production and recycling plans, may help address these issues by demanding companies disclose their carbon footprints and limit non-eco-friendly materials.

Meanwhile, Rachel Kinnard, a Los Angeles scholar and clothing designer, isn’t waiting for sluggish legislative changes. Her class on “Sustainable Fashion” at Chapman University filled quickly, sparking lively discussions and interactions. The course includes hands-on experiences like clothing repairs, visits to the Garment Worker Center, and student-led clothing swaps, emphasizing that not purchasing new clothes is one of the most eco-friendly choices one can make.

Mindy Luo, a 21-year-old senior at UCLA and president of the campus sustainable fashion initiative “RefineLA,” along with her vice president, Lianne Calvo, aims to encourage students to embrace secondhand apparel. “Flea market items can cost as little as ten bucks, but the biggest challenge is that Shein or Temu’s clothes might still be cheaper than thrift shop finds.”

Angie Wang acknowledges the fast fashion dilemma; she is aware of the issues but also keen on controlling her spending. “I admit, the quality of fast fashion items can often surpass that of designer brands while being significantly cheaper,” she says. “If you don’t want to buy too much or if you plan to wear something for a long time, then buying fast fashion pieces is perfectly fine, especially since other brands can cost ten times more.”

Others are exploring avenues beyond budget stores for secondhand clothing. Mia Parra, a recent UCLA graduate, launched “Market 10:42,” featuring classic garments. Sellers must refrain from including fast fashion items, even if they are secondhand. Her Instagram account “@1042flea” has attracted 37,000 followers, with some events having over a hundred sellers.

Kinnard also promotes her course through social media, encouraging students to create videos for their final projects—one of which introduces clothing swaps. Yet, she remains pragmatic, understanding that sustainable fashion has yet to become mainstream.